Helmut Newton

Helmut was born in1920 in Berlin, he attends school at the Heinrich von Treitschke Realgymnasium in Berlin-Schöneberg in 1930 until 1934. In 1938 he began a apprenticeship with the portrait, nude and fashion photographer Yva (Else Simon, neé Neuländer) in Berlin-Charlottenburg.He established a particular style marked by erotic, stylized scenes, often wi.

 

 

Newton created his own special style, a motion in fine fashion, theatricality and sexuality, This mix of eroticism, elegance and luxury dekadenstva influenced not only fashion magazine photo, but also very fashionable. After living several years in Singapore, Newton moved to Melbourne. Here he finds the Second World War. He served in the Australian Army.

 After the war, Helmut opens a small photo studio, doing wedding photography, began to cooperate with Australian Vogue. Newton attracts women with a strong character. Graceful, energetic, sexy - they set the tone for most of them devised productions.

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women, power,beauty, models, black and white pictures 

women power,He established a particular style marked by erotic, stylized scenes, often with sado-masochistic and fetishistic subtexts.

In 1961 he moved to Paris, where Newton soon began regular work with
French Vogue. Over time, the circles of his clients include American, Italian, British and German Vogue, Queen, Marie Clair, and Vanity Fair.

His novels are inspired by the Austrian writer Arthur Schnitzler, the post-war plays of the Swiss playwright Friedrich Durrenmatt, thrillers and James Bond of Ian Fleming.

Helmut Newton is better known as a fashion photographer, he was 70 years and is engaged in portraiture, mainly for Vanity Fair, Stern, ameriknaskogo Vogue.

Full-time position with French Vogue, occasional editorial photography for British Vogue and Queen.

, second world war

'I prefer to photograph the rich rather than poor, - he says. - They are funnier, perhaps without realizing it, sometimes ridiculous, often beautiful '. Among those he shoots more often, people from the world of fashion, entertainment and art, 'Famous and especially with skadalnuyu reputation'. Newton does not seek to give a psychological portrait of a man. It attracts an invented identity, the role of vestments which people prefer to be seen surrounding. In the portrait gallery of Newton french right-wing politician Jean-Marie Li Peng is surrounded Doberman Pinscher, . German filmmaker Leni Riefenstahl with a topographically precise face, . actress Anita Ekberg and industrial magnate Gianni Agnelo expressing sculptural grandeur in the face, . Paloma Picasso's half-naked with a monocle, . Andy Warhol c eyes closed, . in the chair:,

Dress,up1981 by Newton

Pat McGrath

pat mcgrath is the worlds most sought after make up artist. she grew up in south london and found inspiration from her mothers wartdrobe and make up.

her career beginnings saw her work for id magazine, here she was able to fine tune her artistic flair on the faces of many models

pat mcgrath's skills were noticed by many magazine editors and this helped her to get work within larger and more notable companys such as dior, dolce and gabbana, italian vogue,parisian vogue and max factor cosmetics.

what makes pat mcgrath so important is her innovative techniques and her ability to make the models look convincingly other worldly or extremely beautiful humans. she is able to make faces up to look dirty and mad and yet still keep it artistic. from a 1920's flapper girl to a 18th century japanese geisha, mcgrath is able to retain historical context within her work and bring to the present at the same time.

one of pat mcgraths trademarks are her use of latex cut outs  for eyebrows. in the dior couture shows she has used them to create intense expressions , and to exaggerate the facial proportions.

Preppy

Preppy style has quickly infiltrated American fashion over the past decade. With shows like Gossip Girl, The Real Housewives, and NYC Prep ushering in a new era of retro classical style, celebrities are picking it up as well. Notable personalities such as Kanye West, Fonzworth Bentley, and Andre Benjamin are incorporating aspects of preppy styles into their own wardrobes and also their fashion lines.

Ralph Lauren

Ralph Lauren was born October 14, 1939 and is an American Fashion designer and business executive; best-known for his Polo Ralph Lauren clothing brand.

In 1970, Ralph Lauren won the COTY Award for his menswear line. Around that same time he released a line of women's suits that were tailored in a classic men's style, which was when the first Polo emblem was seen. It was on the cuff of the women's suit. Ralph Lauren released Polo's famous short sleeve mesh shirt with the Polo logo in 1972. It came out in 24 colors and soon became a classic.

He also gained recognition for his design after he was contracted to provide clothing styles for the movie The Great Gatsby. 

On June 11, 1997, Polo Ralph Lauren became a public company, traded on the New York Stock Exchange under the symbol RL.

By 2007 Ralph Lauren had over 35 boutiques in the United States. There were 23 locations that carried Ralph Lauren Purple Label, including Atlanta, Beverly Hills, Boston, Wisconsin Avenue, Costa Mesa, Dallas, Denver, Honolulu, Houston, Las Vegas, Manhesset, New York, Palm Beach, Palo Alto, Philadelphia, Phoenix, San Diego, San Francisco, Short Hills and Troy.

 Ralph Lauren - Preppy Chic Look

Jim Jordan 

Jim has been a top celebrity, fashion and advertising photographer for years because of his open and dynamic photography.  Jims work, like his personality, is warm and vibrant. Malibu is a place where the world seems open, the sky wide and the ocean blue.  Its the perfect place for Jim Jordan to be.  

His dynamic client list includes J.Crew, American Express, Vogue, and BMW. He has captured moments with stars like Drew Barrymore, Leonardo DiCaprio, Nicholas Cage, Robert Redford and close friend Charlize Theron.

Jim always knew that beauty and fashion was his future.  As a teenager, he left surfing in Southern California and bought himself a ticket for Milan, dreaming of doing hair and make-up for fashion magazines and great photographers. He stepped off the plane into a foreign world, but with his drive and talent, soon found himself working on photo shoots around the globe.

Vera Wang - Preppy Princess Fragrance

Derrick Watkins

Derrick Watkins was born 13 February 1974 in Atlanta, Georgia and popularly known as Fonzworth Bentley, is a musician and author. 

 

In 2004, he had a part on the music video of Kayne West's "The New Workout Plan".

Bentley has appeared in several music videos, such as Usher's "Yeah", P.Diddy's "D.I.D.D.Y." and "I Need A Girl (Part Two)", Slum Village's "Selfish", OutKast's "The Way You Move" and "Roses",as well as UGK and Outkast's "International Player's Anthem".

In August 2006, Bentley was featured in Sprite's Sublymonal campaign.

He was also featured, playing the voilin in the "Yes We Can" music video in support of Barack Obama's 2008 presidential campaign.

ANNA PIAGGI

Anna Piaggi is an Italian fashion writer and style icon.

Anna Piaggi worked as a translator for the Italian publishing company Mondadori, she then wrote for fashion magazines such as the Italian edition of Vogue and, in the 1980s, the avant-garde magazine Vanity. She is known especially for double page spreads in the Italian Vogue, where her artistic flair has been given free expression in a montage of images and text, with layout by Luca Stoppini. Since 1969, she has used a bright red manual Olivetti valentine typewriter for her work.

Piaggi has a large clothes collection, including 2865 dresses and 265 pairs of shoes, according to a 2006 exhibition at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London. She dresses in an exuberant, unique and eclectic way, never appearing in the same outfit more than once in public. Such is her influence and knowledge in the fashion world, Manolo Blahnik has dubbed her 'The world's last great authority on frocks'.
Her associates in the fashion world include the fashion designer Karl Lagerfeld (from the 1970s), who has often sketched her, and Manolo Blahnik, who is the designer of many of her shoes. She is the muse of British milliner Stephen Jones.




Anna Piaggi with Karl Lagerfeld





Anna Piaggi with Stephen Jones.



 She is also an admirer of British clothes designer Vivienne Westwood and her hats, made by Prudence Millinery. She is rarely seen without fingerless gloves, mostly by UK designer label Glovedup Gloves (www.Glovedup.com). She has lived in New York and has visited London and Italy periodically since the 1950s.

Piaggi was married to the photographer Alfa Castaldi in 1962 in New York. Castaldi died in 1995.

Erwin Blumenfeld

One of the most successful photographers of the 50's was Erwin Blumenfeld. He was a German born photographer born 1897 in Berlin but most active in France and America.

Original Black and White photo

You have probably seen Blumenfeld´s 1950´s Vogue cover or a replica of it.

This beauty shot of a women´s face is a grapic approach of how beauty shots should look like.  You can only see one eye, the brow and the mouth.  The cover is in colour but infact the origianal photo is taken in black and white.

When he exposed the picture he excluded most part of the face and later coloured in the parts shown.

To make a photo like this in our world of technology, this is long from impossible. But back then, this was extraordinary.      



 

In the 1930´s he lived in Holland where he published this collage mocking Adolf Hitler



In 1940 he was sent to a camp because he was Jewish, he managed to escape in 1941, he then fled to America where his career took off.

on top of the Eiffel Tower

Blumenfeld shot his first fashion commission; images for French Vogue shortly before his fortieth birthday.He was famous for the ability to make commercial photos look like fine art.

With advertising contracts for beauty giants such as Helena Rubenstein and Elizabeth Arden, Blumenfeld became one of the most acclaimed and in-demand photographers of his time. In the 50´s he became the highest paid photographer.

He had a unique approach to the photos and he did a lot of experimentation with them. His more personal works were in black and white, meanwhile his commercial work in fashion, mostly for Vogue and Harper's Bazaar, was mostly in color. In both media he was a great innovator. In his black and white photos he did all his work personally in the dark room. In colour he drew on his extensive background in classical and modern painting.

 

He  had a love affair with the female form and documented it in sensual shots that used technical experimentation to explore themes of eroticism, visual elegance and obfuscation core to European art and intellectual culture of the period

Politics, War and Guerilla tactics in fashion ...

Politics, War and Guerilla tactics in fashion ...

After researching all of the names on the list, I was really interested to explore and combine the idea of sub culture as well as people who have influenced movements. After becoming fascinated by the new project Militaria, it occurred to me that there was a new emerging sub culture, one which is influenced by the media and politics surrounding us. At a very uncertain time in our history, the concepts of war and economic crisis are bound to affect the work of established designers and artists, as well as up and coming ones like ourselves. I found and researched designers, a makeup artist, a photographer and an icon of this time, all influenced by these fashions. I found Hussain Chalayan, Aitor Throup, Alex Box, Walter Hugo, Vogue and Sienna Miller all displayed fashions influenced by paranoia, militaria, concealment of identity, imposing boundaries and all of which are politically charged. Throughout Britain’s recent history, it is hard to escape from our generation being affected by growing up with the knowledge of these happenings and seeing scenes on the news from 9/11, Afghanistan and, more recently, from Libya. Therefore, from a young age, we have been aware of an element of paranoia, and the presence of military in other countries and our own. Aitor Throups graduate collection from the Royal College of Art in 2006 was entitled ‘When football hooligans become Hindu gods’, had a strong narrative thread running through it and a diverse selection of influences from generic military garments to Hindu symbolism, which were contrasting as notions of religion often fuel war.

Hussain Chalayan, who was born in Turkey in 1970, uses both his experiences of growing up there and living in London to create a controversial collection, which included taking inspiration from Burkhas, exposing intimate parts of the body and concealing the face in a collection which challenged religion and the politics which surround it. After looking at Chalayan, I naturally wanted to research a makeup artist who explores concealing the face, as well as how contrast also exposes and draws attention to it. Alex Box is a renowned makeup artist, and I chose this picture as I believe it is very poignant as the blackened eyes mask and expose certain parts of the face, almost depicting a balaclava or war paint. Vogues March 2010 militaria issue again reinforces the idea of military intruding into fashion as well as everyday lives, showing lines from Chloe and Gucci glamorising a controversial topic, almost showing acknowledgement and support.

With celebrities such as Sienna Miller photographed wearing a military inspired shirt, photographed next to two soldiers, shows the true affect that I believe now to be an idea sparked by movements in war, religion and politics, which has been translated and explored within designers and artists work. Our exposure to a piece of work and how we as spectators are affected and influenced are important factors in Walter Hugos photography, which is exposed onto pavements and glass. This is a for of guerrilla art, presenting politically charged pieces to and audience who wouldn’t otherwise see them, in essence, a form of street art. This idea of pushing boundaries and making people think about politics through art in a guerrilla fashion is controversial, but truly depicts Britains uncertain future, and how each of these artists and designers reflect and translate this within their work.

Proenza Schouler

Proenza Schouler is aNew York based modern luxury fashion label founded in 2002 by designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez. The label produces womenswear and accessories.

The name Proenza Schouler is a combination of the designers mothers maiden names.

McCollough and Hernandez met at Parson's The New School for Design in 1998, they worked together on their final year thesis collection, which was bought in its entirety by Barneys New York.

After the success of their final year collection McCollough and Hernandez each went on to work with Marc Jacobs and Michael Kors and then came together to work on their graduation project. 

Proenza Schouler has gone from strength to strength since its beginnings in 2002, winning the CFDA Perry Ellis award for new talent in 2003, and the Vogue Fashion Fund award in 2004. 2007 saw the label win Womenswear Designer of the year award.




An array of fastenings inthe Proenza Schouler studio - Image by Tommy Ton.

 

Proenza Schouler's continuous success lies in the designers ability to create well made garments that can be worn by young and mature women. The clothing is sleek, uncomplicated and feminine. The use of colour and texture within the collections is clever as the garments simple silhouette along with detailed texture and bright ,colour means that they are versatile and can be worn alone or paired with something else.




Models wait backstage at the Proenza Schouler Spring Summer 2011 show

 

In 2008 the Valentino Group took a 45% stake in Proenza Schouler and in the same year the label launched their first collection of shoes and handbags. They were then awarded the 2009 CFDA Accessory Designer of the year award.





The Label uses simple elegant shapes and the designers are present at every stage of the designs.



McCollough and Hernandez are known for being hands on during the design phase

 

The collections use woven and printed textiles in the designs especially in the spring 2010 and 2011 collections. Woven textiles can be seen in the garments through to the shoes and handbags, adding texture and depth.




Beautifully crafted shoes with woven textiles.

 



Texture and colour, along with a simple , clean silhouette

 


Collection sketches from the Proenza Schouler Studio.



Proenza Schouler has been praised for its impeccable tailoring and craft with many Fashion Editors  commending the designers on the perfect construction of the clothing. Pieces from their collections can be seen on many Fashion week attendees.




Eye catching blazer and top on two Fashion week spectators.





Proenza Schouler is a label which shows any aspiring designer the fusion between impeccable tailoring and construction with textiles. Theirs is a formula which will see the labels continued success.

(All images in this post are by Photographer Tommy Ton)